Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Clean Monday
By: Lina

One Monday we got up not so early (after the big costume festival in Kalamata). And because it was a holiday our friends decided to take us on a small trip to village up in the mountains - Nedousa. With sleeping mood, rain outside we reached the village. The rain was rather strong, but there were some people, who were preparing something very energetically: tables, white table cloths, square in the middle of abandoned house - a shelter from the rain. We took a small look around the village and that time the party began. The traditional Greek dances, special bread, that you could get only this day, special bean soup and wine. Mmmm… amazing. Normaly I don't like bean dishes so much, but for this cold morning it was more than perfect. Finally the rain stopped and the real celebration began. People were dressed in horns with sooten faces and other costumes. An escort was plowing, funeral and wedding pageants, water was gathered on the people, painted soot crosses on the foreheads and of course dances. Everything was with a lot of fun and jokes. All jokes were of course in Greek and I didn't understand, but still I was trying to stick my head everywhere inside the mass of the people. I had a lot of fun.

So this is Shrovetide Festival, Mardi Gras, Pancake Day or Tuesday and a lot of other names, but in general it is the same fest. Shrovetide is winter farewell festival. It reaches back to pre-Christian times when, to celebrate the coming of spring and the rebirth of vegetation, fertility rites were very important. Our ancestors celebrated it before Christianity and it lasted longer - three days or all week. Under the influence of Christianity, the pagan festivals of spring coalesced with festivity of Shrovetide, and some have remained to this day in the shape of carnivals and masquerades. A similar celebration in February is celebrated all around the world. In many countries, people dress up, puts on masks and have carnivals. The most famous carnivals are in Rio de Janeiro and Venice - it's Shrovetide descendants. Christianity Mardi Gras - it is the last day and the last opportunity to have fun and nourishing meal before seven weeks of fasting before Easter. Lithuanian Shrovetide Festival is called (Užgavėnės), and occurs on Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday, every year. The name of Lithuanian carnival means “the time before Lent.” Because of Christianity the ancient festival names and real meanings in the long time that passed were forgotten, but the customs survived. Now we have Catholic Mardi Gras traditions. This festival, from pagan roots, had to be noisy; in an attempt to scare off evil forces. The people portrayed both mythical people and creatures, disguised as beasts and birds. From early morning people in costumes acting in disguise as strangers and demons begin roaming. The oldest costumes - devils, witches, horse rider, goat, bear. Later practice was to impersonate local types: the Jewish peddler, the tramp and the cunning gypsies, the pretended beggar, the Hungarian doctor, death personality, the wedding guests, the soldiers. Foreigners were chosen to show that they are from other places - unknown lands. Jews, gypsies brought about the influence of Christianity, and where they were not consistent with the teachings of the Church, those other religious people were called Jews and gentiles.

People do not do any hard work on Shrove Tuesday. It is especially liked by children, young people and newlyweds. They go on swings, ride horses in the fields, make races, visit friends, enjoy sleigh rides down the slopes while others try to pour water on them. Of high value ​​during Mardi Gras was the sprinkling of water, it means to cause air warming. It was also the custom of rain water on the bees. The custom to jump out of the sleigh and bathe in the snow, proceeded from the belief that man and earth are closely interdependent. It was believed that after that flax, grain and other crops and animals would grow well. So that the flax fiber would be longer, both young and old would swing on swings: the higher swing, the better the flax and corn grow. An important part was for pagan plays of dancing. Often women dressed in men's clothing, men in womens’. On Shrove Tuesday, they put on funeral pageants and wedding pageants. The groom usually dressed as a small fellow, and the bride - the larger man. They usually visit homes, play pranks, act, sing folk songs, try to snatch something and then demand payment, throw water or catch someone and bathe in snow, making a lot of noise and jokes to each other. After the pranks, the ones in costumes ask for pancakes or money. On Shrove Tuesday, a lot of people eat oily foods and often overeat, so a doctor is necessary! The Hungarian pharmacists are searching for patients, giving medicine and speaking in a funny ​​incorrect language. The gypsies were telling funny future predictions. Other sorcery also is very common.

Relatives  wait for guests and brown pancakes. On Mardi Gras day it is normal to eat much oily and nourishing food before fasting. The main dishes - medley, pancakes, meats and stewed cabbage. In ancient times, the main dish was a medley of Mardi Gras. Its main ingredients were mostly grains, peas, barley, flour, beans, bacon and a boiled cereal with meat. Pancakes’ shape and form could symbolize sun. During the day people would eat nine or even twelve times. It is believed that on this day you have to eat a lot, because it is the last day before the fast of Lent and these numbers were supposed to insure that in the spring and summer you would not be lacking strength for the hard work in the fields. It was believed that if you cram full, Shrove Tuesday will keep you satiated all year.

Ethnologists say that a long time ago - the New year was reminiscent of Shrove Tuesday with it’s traditions. It was celebrating almost in the same way: the youth were visiting neighbours in costumes of new and old years with escort: bear, oak, evil and others. It is very important to make an original mask, more scary or funny than others’. They were made of wood, fair paper and tree bark. Mardi Gras masks, whatever they may be terrible, all smiles. Typical masks attributes - big noses, shattered teeth, unkempt hair, asymmetrical eyes, mustache, beard. The mask could also be just painted on the face, used to cover it, cheeks with soot, carbon or even beet ink.

Another essential attribute of Shrovetide is Morė. Morė is a tall doll, dressed in women's clothes, made of straw. It is a female effigy, a fertility deity, who is paraded through streets and burned in the evening yelling "winter, winter get out of the yard", as a way to say farewell to winter and to celebrate springtime, getting rid of the accumulated evil of winter frosts. It is believed that fasting begins vegetation.

In addition to the character Morė, two other symbolic figures - Lašininis (Bacon) and Kanapinis (Hempt) - fight. Kanapinis - the embodiment of spring - a slender and spindly character, with diligence, abdomen girded with rope, who represents renewal, always wins, while the fat one - the embodiment of winter - always thick, creamy, symbolising laziness - is chased away.

A lot of these traditions I saw in Nedousa, that's why I decided to write about it. No one could explain the real and full meaning of these prehistoric traditions, except the main goal: to kick out the winter and invite and welcome the spring, but it is clear that they are very old and the meaning of course is very important. It is amazing how in such a big area and in such a big distance we have practically the same customs and traditions. Even the time is going and everything is changing very drastically, it is important not to forget everything. I think that important things we will not.
5 Days on the road in small houses with wheels and endless gardens

After 10 days with a wonderful big family I decided to take some time off and join to " En route ... les enfants " to travel together around the Peloponnese, at the last moment our friend Lina also decided to join us.
Our trip started on a Saturday morning, “I woke up with the left foot” as Lina had to knock on my door given that the night before I forgot to set the alarm ........, as my mother would say "happy nights difficult mornings". To this I would add that it wasn’t a difficult morning but one in a hurry: I had a quick shower, put on some clothes and food in the backpack while Lina and Alexandra were chanting my name to tease me.
We joined the rest of the family that of course were all ready for our trip in direction Ghiainova Lagoon where we stopped around 12:30 to first of all find a nice place to eat, as our little family members needed to fill their little stomachs. This time we stopped at a wonderful beach to eat and become evil pirates in search of a great treasure in Greek waters. Our crew was French, Lithuanian and Spanish part and the boats were taken in Greece. Afterwards we had to find a nice place to set up our houses on wheels. Once settled, some had a nap or studied and some others went for a walk to investigate the area with the beautiful lagoon. We wondered if we would be lucky enough to see flamingos. After a long walk we returned back home with our new garden, the pressure cooker started working again, we had soup and went to bed. The first night I opted for sleeping in Edgar (the big blue truck).
The journey continues with the rhythm of the sun. We woke up early to have breakfast in our wonderful garden in a nice sunny day, ummmmmmmmmmmm Greece is always in eternal spring! Some had coffee, other hot chocolate or tea, rye bread, honey and butter. After getting some energy our journey begins again: we got the vehicles prepared, heated up the engines and 1, 2, 3 on road !
The Walky talky was fundamental for our communication. Edgar “the adventurer” went first to facilitate progress to then I Veko and the large old Bus. Of course besides singing the curves and the cars we took advantage of the walkie talky to tease the others hihihihihi…
It was time to stop again on the road, as it was time for the pressure cooker to work with its splendour and exquisite silver steam announcing the arrival of the food. Our stomachs were full and ready for another walk, a nap or a little bit of work and study. After discovering new places it was time to play cards with our cocktail of languages: a lot of English, half French, a quarter Spanish, Lithuanian and a hint of Greek.
The route continued to investigate wonderful places in the Peloponnese from Kiparasia with its fantastic Castle, Nafplio and its great fishing port where we woke up with a fish market with products straight from the sea. There was also the magical Palea Epidavros where we discovered an amazing beach full of hedgehogs waiting and we were greeted by two fantastic dolphin friends.
In this paradise surrounded by orange, lemon and mandarin trees we had the surprise visit of two other French friends. The French colony began to grow with their magic smiles and their UE UE UE (which would mean something like Yes, yes, yes). At this point the family was divided: Edgar decided to keep its members in the wonderful place and the old Bus needed to move a little bit the engine with I Veco to approach Korinthos and catch our bus back to Kalamata.  Our trip came to an end and its the hard goodbye…but  no,no, it is not a goodbye, as they say in Casablanca "This is the beginning of a beautiful friendship”
Emotions, smells , colours, smiles and tears flooded our grateful hearts after these magical days sharing the road, the shelter, the garden and the heart !
Thank you my friends

Bon Voyage, 
Viva la Vida Nómada. 
The aventure of creating, generating and sharing the excitement of living !